Leviathan is a pioneer of fresh air in elevated seafood

Leviathan, from Chef Phillip Frankland Lee, celebrates a visceral approach to eating top-shelf seafood.

First impressions

The location of this outdoor space in a strip mall in Encino are often commented on and yes, it is a bit unconventional but its unassuming ambiance is what adds to the surprising juxtaposition of this hidden gem focused on high quality, elegant seafood in an approachable, congenial backdrop. It’s a convivial space built for people to socialize with hearth cooking from a brick-walled fire pit setup.

There are 16 seats in the new concept from the Chef Lee’s Scratch Family of restaurants, with 8 seats at the Chef’s Counter for an up close experience amidst the action. The countertop that dominates one side of the space is often busy, but it’s hardly raucous or out of control. At the Chef’s Counter, each party is divided by plexiglass and there is plexiglass between the customers and the chefs. All of the chefs and servers are wearing masks.

The crowd

Fans of the Scratch Family restaurants wanting to ease off on the meat are in abundance, as are people keen to go beyond the usual shrimp and fish dishes that permeate Los Angeles.

What should we be drinking?

With a seafood focus, white wines dominate the list, with a pleasing selection of by-the-glass options at prices that encourage branching out. The cocktail list, too, is aware of the delicate flavor profiles on the plate, and gins and citrus are the mainstays there.

Main event: the food—and what not to miss

Beautiful and technical, this is a pioneering seafood restaurant that aims to please on a high level of execution. Expect a procession of super-fresh offerings, both raw and cooked—which in itself will sate all but the biggest appetites. The all-out, “Fire the Whole Menu” option is worth it to experience the full tasting menu-style dishes, which change seasonally, in all its glory. The house specialities like the Spot Prawn, Grilled Octopus, and Branzino are approachable and inventive, while striking a balance between high-technique twists and subtlety. Dishes like the Shima Aji, Salt Cod, and Blue Fin Tuna go a long way toward showing what, exactly, a sure-handed cook can do with delicate ingredients. And don’t forget to order the popular Panna Cotta for dessert to cap up a truly memorable dining experience. It’s created by Chef Lee’s partner and wife, acclaimed pastry chef Margarita Kallas-Lee, so you know you’re in good hands.

The service

The clientele are looking for certain standards in their seafood, so the server’s ability to, say, virtually pinpoint where the lavender in their iconic Panna Cotta is farmed and imported from England, is a huge boon. They’re lively and enthused about the menus, which speaks incredibly well to the restaurant. The staff is very generous and forthcoming with pointed recommendations.

Why should we dine here?

It’s a place to throw into the mix whenever an out of town friend suggests one of the many overrated seafood restaurants in town and, as noted, it’s a particularly good place for a social sharing of creative dishes between seafood-loving friends. This isn't a dine and dash experience—sit, stay a while, and bask in every bite of your seafood conversation starters.

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